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Beerpong Tisch Introduction: Interactive LED Beer Pong Table 2.0 (BPT X5) VideoBeer Pong Portable
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Das Design hat bei uns den höchsten Anspruch! Bei uns ist nicht nur die Platte in schwarz, sondern auch das Gestell! Allblack ist wirklich Allblack!
Stelle deine Formationen und gewinne das Match! Finden wir auch! Genug davon! Der Allblack Tisch bietet genug Platz! Mehr Infos Den Tisch eingepackt aber die Bälle vergessen?
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They are quite simple to assemble whether you use the reflow method or do each pod by hand. The reflow method is really only necessary if you are assembling a large amount of RGB pods or have access to cheap solder stencils.
When I designed this kit, I specifically decided to use 2x4 IDC cables because of the simplicity to crimp the connectors to the cable.
With these cables, we can crimp all 8 connections in the connector at once, instead of doing it one by one for each wire like many other connectors.
This saves an enormous amount of time as there are 40 connectors that need to be crimped for all 20 RGB pods. If you don't want to buy the proper tool, one can get away with using a pair of vice grips or an actual vice itself to crimp the connector to the cable.
Crimping IDC Connectors. We're going to make the LED rings right now as we need to use them in the next few steps for the layout of the table.
First, cut out a 71mm diameter wooden cutout for each LED ring that you will be installing on the edge of the table not counting the ball washers.
For this table that number is eight. Now grab your 24 LED strip and go to the end of it where the wire is sticking out. Remove a small piece of silicone just below the wire and route the wire through that channel so that it is sticking out the bottom of the strip.
If you don't like the look of the ring with a zip-tie around it even though it will be hidden under a diffuser on the finished table , put superglue on each end of the strip and form it into a ring use a heatgun or hair-dryer if it gives you trouble forming it.
Heating up the silicone allows it to form easier. Once it dries in place, fit it over top of one of the wooden cutouts and glue the underside of the LED ring to the cutout, ensuring that they are one piece right now.
Whichever option you choose to do, repeat it for the other 7 LED rings. I sprayed a diffuser over top of each of my LED rings, but that may not be needed as I decided to put a diffuser over top of the whole table anyways.
So it's completely optional. There are 4 LED rings which are used with the ball washers. Don't add a wood cutout to each ball washer LED ring as they will be fitting around a small piece of ABS pipe used with the ball washer.
Just set them to side once you have them made. If you are just going to modify a table that you purchased somewhere else, you can skip these instructions.
These are just the instructions for how I built my table, one could actually just buy a plastic table from Wal-Mart and modify that to suit their needs.
I don't have a lot of pictures showing my table build so I will resort to using my Sketchup CAD drawings to better explain how the table goes together.
The Sketchup drawing does not show where each screw hole is, but I'm going to assume that if you're building this table that you can handle that otherwise just ask and I'll draw up a quick sketch!
Make sure to drill pilot holes before threading in each screw or you will probably end up cracking the wood! It's a pretty basic table, the overall size of it will come out to 24"x96"x4" without the legs, railing and acrylic sheet.
Here is a list of the following parts that are needed:. Following the photos above, attach all 4 sides to the 24"x96" bottom base of the plywood.
Secure each piece with multiple screws from the bottom of the table up into each side piece of the table. Make sure to drill pilot holes or you will crack the side pieces.
After drilling the pilot hole and before putting the screw in, use a countersink bit or just a large drill bit and countersink the hole so that the head of the screw is not sticking above the surface of the wood.
Now add the braces. We will use these holes for routing the cabling. Install these braces inside of the table at Put a strip of weatherproof tape on each piece of wood that makes up the top of the base.
Once you've got the base of the table built, you need to attach the 72" long hinge across the top and bottom of the table.
I recommend drilling out the ball washer holes on the lid prior to installing the hinge but it can be done either way.
Measure 12" in from one end of the table, line up the hinge with the lid and base of the table, drill a pilot hole for each screw and then thread each screw in and secure the hinge.
Once the hinge is on, open the lid up to a point just before it is perpendicular to the base, then secure a strong piece of wire I used silicone tubing so that it has give between the base of the table and the lid.
This ensures that the table lid won't over extend and fall to the other side, possibly causing damage. I plan to swap out the hinge with some cupboard like hinges that will be hidden on the inside of the table and still allow it to open up.
This hinge is an eyesore but it gets the job done for now. In this step we will be adding supports for the acrylic sheet.
This ensures that the sheet does not bend or bow on the table. We also have to cut out four notches on each side rail to accommodate the size of the LED rings.
The photos above are pretty much crucial to this step and will explain how to do this much better than I can through text. Attach the rail to the table temporarily and then take one LED ring and go over top of each location.
Trace around the portion of the ring that intersects with the rail with a pencil. Do this for all four LEDs on the rail and then take the rail over to your drill press.
Use an 89mm 3. Put a piece of scrap wood underneath the rail and clamp the rail to it once the first notch is lined up. Proceed to cut out the notch.
Do this for the other three notches on the rail, taking care to keep the rail supported as it will get weaker with each notch cut out. To save time on the second rail, take the one you just completed and set it on top of the uncompleted rail.
Line them up together, clamp them together and trace each notch onto unfinished piece. Then repeat the process at the drill press to cut out the rest of the notches on the second piece.
Once finished, attach each side rail and end rail to the table. Install each LED ring, drilling a small hole to fit the connector and wire underneath the lid.
Now we just have to finish the supports on the inside of the table. If you are painting your table, now is a good time to paint the supports.
Measure in Measure the mirrored support to the edge and ensure that it is centered. Secure each support to the table and countersink each hole.
I ended up adding these supports when I finished my table which you will see in the photos above. I provide many options to lay out the LED grid but I will cut down on some of the photos and make things more clear.
It is similar to option 1 where you have to mount each LED into the tables lid but it also utilizes the capabilities of a router. Instead of spending a ton of time wire wrapping each LED lead, you can just cut out straight tracks in a grid-like formation and lay copper tape in each track.
I found this to be the fastest way for me to create this painstaking LED grid. Use the last of the photos to get a clearer understanding of option 3.
It is, arguably, the coolest feature of the table but also the most boring to build. In this step, I will show three options to build the LED grid.
The first option requires drilling a hole into the table for each LED, setting it into the table and gluing it in place. Then underneath the lid of the table, we have to solder each row and column connection for each LED.
We then finish off the grid by connecting the grid to the pin breakout PCB so that it can be interfaced with the master PCB. However, it will take you a few hours to complete less time than option 2 though.
The second option is what I chose to use with this particular table. This step is similar to the first option except we create a jig to hold the LED grid instead of actually attaching the LEDs to the table.
We then wire up the whole grid in the jig, attach the connector and then pour liquid silicone around the connections to completely encase the wiring of the LED grid.
This allows us to be able to remove the LED grid from the table or fold up the LED grid so that it has a smaller footprint and can be shipped easier.
This way is more expensive and more difficult as one has to purchase the liquid silicone from a supplier I found mine on AliExpress , have the required equipment to degas the silicone and then spend the extra time prepping and pouring the silicone.
In this step I will explain how to do the second option but if you choose to use the first option, just copy the following instructions except instead of mounting your LEDs in a jig, drill out the grid on the lid of your table and superglue or hot-glue the LEDs in place on the lid.
Then flip the table over and do the exact same wiring as I explain in this step. Complete the wiring and connector and then you're done.
You obviously will stop short of pouring any silicone. You need the following pieces to make the jig:.
Pick one corner of the bottom piece of plywood and measure in Mark the location and then measure straight across from that mark Keep going at Repeat the same process for the rows and you'll have your grid drawn out.
Take a 5mm drill bit and make a hole for each LED in the jig. Take each 25mm border and arrange them flush along the outer edge of the jig. One end will have a space in the middle for the pin PCB connector.
The jig is now made. Next, place the first column of LEDs in the jig and take care to ensure that they are all placed in the jig with the same orientation.
Bend down each anode lead one each of the 12 LEDs and then take some solderable enamel coated wire and wrap it around the anode of the first LED two times a wire wrap tool works great for this.
Repeat the process for each column and then do the same for the twelve rows connecting cathodes on the rows. It is critical that you put a bit of slack in the wire between each LED, otherwise the wires can break if the silicone LED grid is rolled up.
Once the grid is completely wired, we will need to get some wire to hook up the pin breakout PCB to the grid.
I used 3-pair phone cable but any wire will do. Solder a piece of wire to each column and route the wire to the opening on the front of the jig where we will mount the breakout connector.
Repeat the same process for the columns. After verifying that all of the LEDs in the grid are working, we will encase it in silicone. Applies To None, unless you choose to create the LED grid this way instead of building it into the table.
This is just here for general knowledge. This step is only applicable to you if you are using option 2 to make your LED grid.
I don't recommend this method as it is far more expensive, time consuming and messier than option 1. In fact, the only reason that I tried it was to see if I would be able to make a portable LED grid that I could ship with the kits.
I eventually decided against making these and selling them for the following reasons:. As with most products, cost is the limiting factor for this LED grid that is encased in silicone.
However, I still wanted to post the process and results in case anybody does choose to do it this way and just for general knowledge.
The photos above explain the process to create your own silicone LED grid. Degassing Liquid Silicone. In this step we will secure each RGB pod to the table, but first we have to mark the placement of each pod as well as drill out a hole that is large enough to fit the 2x4 IDC connector through to the bottom of the table.
Use the photos in this step and measure out the center location of each RGB pod on the table. Make a small 1 - 2mm pilot hole at each location so that it will be easier to thread a screw into place to secure the pod once we are finished.
There are two ways that once can use to measure out the location of each 2x4 connector in reference to the center of its respective pod.
If you use the template, you must make sure that you set it to print out at "Actual Size" and don't use the scale to fit option in the Adobe Reader print section.
Once you have the template printed out, you line up the center hole on the template with the pod location on the table and then make a mark where the connector hole should go and the pilot hole should go.
Then drill out the connector hole first followed by the 2mm pilot hole. Now you're ready to connect them up! In this step, I will show you how to use a crimping tool for the various connectors on the Master PCB.
Although it is more expensive than some other crimpers, I would definitely recommend it as I have used some other cheaper ones and they don't do as nice of a job when crimping or crimp as wide of a variety of connectors as this one does.
As with most of this Instructable, follow the photos above to get a good understanding of the process. Not a big deal, just follow the instructions above as the instructions are the same for that type of connector.
Use the diagram in the photos and connect up each lead on the sensor to its respective wire. You will have to do this for both the entry and the exit sensor.
Once you have wires connected up to each sensor, align the eight CAT5 wires in the correct order and crimp an RJ45 connector on to them. Repeat the same process to make the sensor assembly for the second ball washer.
As you will see with lots of parts in this Instructable, I tend to use CAT5 wire for longer wire runs as it is very common and cheap to purchase.
Just strip away the outer PVC sheath to expose the four pairs of wires inside. The ball washers air baths are quite easy to install.
I have made custom laser cut motor mounts and sensor brackets that are included in every kit sold, but if you need to make your own you can use the part template located in the main zip file or simply modify a few blocks of wood with a drill and a jigsaw Or just glue the sensor in place where the hole is.
Just don't poke it too far into the pipe where it will obstruct the ball. The propellers for the ball washers come in a 75mm length which is too big to fit inside of the pipe.
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